Archive for the ‘Quilting’ Category
Appliqué Quilting: How To Do It
The more you understand about any subject, the more interesting it becomes. As you read this article you’ll find that the subject of Quilting is certainly no exception.
Originating from the French word appliquer, appliqué means to put on. It is a quilting basic technique that includes cutting pieces of fabric of various designs, sizes, and shapes and sewing them onto a background material. Appliqué quilting expresses a quilter’s artistic potentials and yields beautiful, pictographic quilts. However, some quilters often think that appliquéing is so hard a technique and therefore should be left to the master quilters. How afraid they are to try their hand on it. The truth is, appliquéing is not as difficult as people imagine. It is quite easy to learn and, if mastered, opens so many creative quilting possibilities.
So how do you exactly make appliqués? Here’s how:
1. Prepare the design pattern. You can do this by tracing the design you want on to a freezer paper using a marker. Note that you have to draw the reverse side of the design. Then, cut out the pattern. Do not add a seam allowance.
2. Place the shiny side of the cut-out freezer paper on the wrong side of the fabric. Next, press it with a hot iron. Take note: press. Do not slide the iron over the freezer paper. Note that the freezer paper will adhere to the fabric, but it can be peeled off easily.
Now that we’ve covered those aspects of Quilting, let’s turn to some of the other factors that need to be considered.
3. Cut out the fabric following the pattern of the freezer paper. Make a seam allowance of about 1/8 to1/4 inch. Then, fold the seam allowance over the edges of the pattern. If you are dealing with curves, you have to notch the allowance all the way around to make smooth, rounded curves. Again, press the seam allowance. After which, remove the freezer paper.
4. Begin sewing the appliqué pieces to the background fabric. Remember to first sew the bigger pieces onto which you will lay and stitch the smaller pieces. For example, if you are doing a butterfly appliqué, first stitch the wings, then follow it with the body. You have to keep a stitching order in attaching appliqué pieces.
5. Make small stitches. Whether you do hand or machine appliqué, it is important to make small stitches because they prove to be stronger and less visible in the quilt. You can use several kinds of stitches in appliqués, although the most widely used is blind stitch. If you are using a machine, you can do zigzag stitch, satin stitch, among others.
6. Be careful with curves. Approaching curves is relatively easy when hand-sewing. It can be quite a concern, though, when using a machine. To perfectly machine-stitch curves, decrease your speed, make a few stitches, then put the needle down and slightly reposition the fabric. Doing so will avoid gaps in between stitches. Make fewer stitches and do more fabric repositioning as you approach tighter curves.
Your first attempt at appliqué quilting may not produce your desired result. But don’t be disheartened; rather keep this as your motivation to do better each time you do appliqué. Before you begin with actual appliquéing, it would help to get a few scraps and practice your stitching. What you need to watch out for are puckered background, uneven stitches, and sloppy appliqué pieces.
About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO
Quilting 101
There are many decisions to be made before a quilting project begins. The first is choosing what design you will use. This choice may vary from project to project.
Traditional quilting involves following the outline of the block’s design. You would stitch 1/4 inch from each seam line on your pieced or appliquéd patch. This would be just outside the pressed seam allowances.
Stitching in the ditch is another quilting process. In this method you stitch right into the seam. The shape of the design becomes distinct and the stitches are almost invisible as the fabric on each side of the seam puffs up around them.
In Design quilting, you embellish your quilt block with a set design. You simply purchase a quilt stencil and trace onto your patch in any open spaces.
Echo design quilting is when lines of stitching follow the outline of the block, then are repeated every 1/4 inch. This repetition makes sections of very heavy quilting and is not practiced by beginners.
Overall design quilting ignores the block’s pattern and uses an overall design. Three overall designs often used are grids of squares, diamonds and clamshells.
If you don’t have accurate details regarding Quilting, then you might make a bad choice on the subject. Don’t let that happen: keep reading.
What quilting design you choose will also affect what pattern and fabrics you choose and vise versa. What you need to learn to do is visualize the completed project before you even begin. Obviously, if you want to use stencils and the design quilting method, you must choose fabric that has room for you to stencil on it.
Now that you have chosen you pattern, fabric and design you may begin piecing you quilt top. This involves creating a template, cutting all the pieces and sewing the blocks together. Once the blocks are completed they too must be connected to form the quilt top. You should first lay out all your blocks to make sure they are uniform in size, as well as in the correct position. Try not to place blocks that are too similar in design or color next to each other. Once you are satisfied with the design just divide the quilt into rows, either horizontal or vertical and begin sewing.
Once your quilt top is finished you are ready to layer it together with the batting in the middle and the backing fabric on the back. Polyester batting is the most popular and easy to use filling available today. All you have to do is open the bag and unroll it. This type of batting comes in different lofts or thicknesses, the thicker the loft, the warmer the quilt.
Backing fabric should have a low thread count and be loosely oven. The backing and the batting should be just slightly larger than the finished quilt top. Backing fabric usually needs to be seamed together. The traditional way is to seam three lengths of fabric, of equal widths, vertically down the backing. Cut off the selvage first, than shrink the fabric before you use it. Sew together the seams and press.
Place the backing on the floor, wrong side up. It should be about 2 inches larger than the quilt top. Roll out the batting. It should be cut about 1 inch smaller than the backing and one inch larger than the quilt top. Center the quilt top on top of the batting face-up. Pin all three layers together. Baste the layers together, beginning in the center of the quilt. You may use running stitches or Z stitches for basting.
If you are hand quilting your project you will require either a quilt frame, or a large hoop. Hoops are more portable, but require more basting. Once your project is secure you begin stitching the three layers together in very small uniform stitches, using the design you chose earlier. Start With about 18 inches of thread and begin working in the centre of your project, quilting toward the outside edge.
Don’t limit yourself by refusing to learn the details about Quilting. The more you know, the easier it will be to focus on what’s important.
About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO
Tips In Choosing Quilting Fabrics
If you have even a passing interest in the topic of Quilting, then you should take a look at the following information. This enlightening article presents some of the latest news on the subject of Quilting.
Choosing the fabric materials is one of the most critical decisions in quilt-making. This is because there are so many things to consider the colors, textures, patterns, styles, characteristics, etc. all of which are important in quilting.
Here are some random tips.
Quality
First, be sure your quilting materials are colorfast, whether these are old scraps you had been saving to use on your quilt or new fabrics you have bought specifically for your project. Wash a piece to check if the colors don’t run.
Is the fabric strong enough? Too tightly-woven fabrics are difficult to quilt. Fabrics that are woven loose, on the other hand, are good candidates for rips, tearing, and damage.
Pure cotton had been proven to be the best materials yet for quilts. Man-made fibers (synthetics) and some cotton-combination fabrics are difficult to handle. They have a tendency to curl at the most inopportune places.
The good point, however, is that these fabrics have more options in terms of colors and designs than plain old cottons. The colors are more brilliant and designers have done more work (and experiments) on them.
If you are an experienced sewer, you may be able to surmount these handling difficulties. These same difficulties are also present in knitted, stretch and crepe fabrics.
Color and fabric design
Expert quilters always remind beginners to choose colors and combinations well. This may sound easy but once you have your finished quilt, it is not easy to undo things.
People declare the best judgment call is to trust your instincts. It might also be good to add some time-tested formulas from the arts and from general consensus.
You can see that there’s practical value in learning more about Quilting. Can you think of ways to apply what’s been covered so far?
It is said that blue-based colors are cold and that red and yellow-based colors are warmer. Black will dim any color next to it, and white brightens any color placed side by side with it.
Generally, people are said to be energized and active with warm colors. With cool colors like green and blue people tend to become calmer and relaxed.
This is an important consideration if you are intending to give away your quilt to someone important to you (a friend, a loved one, or your boss perhaps). It is worthwhile noting their prospective responses to your present.
If it is for your personal use, you may also have to consider your own feelings of your finished work.
Backing materials and quantity
Always try to have your backing materials similar to your top quilt material in weight and color. The rationale for this is ease of sewing. It is difficult to sew through uneven levels of materials or materials of unlike textures, thickness or weave.
Buy a little more than what you need for your quilt. This is to preclude any eventuality of your running out of materials. The extra fabric you bought will always have some use for you in the future, especially now that you are into quilting.
Your choice
In the end, your fabric choice will depend on your design, the colors you want, and the quality of your work. Of course, once you become a confident quilter, you can always choose any fabric that catches your fancy and imagination.
Quilting is such an exciting art and there is no limit to what you want to create.
About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO
Unearthing Quilting
There have been lots of events that have shaped the world as it is today. There are various concepts and principles that continuously guide each and every civilization toward survival and propagation. There are very ancient practices that still make their marks within the realms of the present generation. Let’s take a step back and take a journey aimed at unearthing quilting.
The craft of patching fabric materials together was commonly used in order to come with body protections and household accessories like usual clothing and pillows. Quilting has been around as early as the 15th century. There are even accounts leading its association with one of the oldest known communities of Egypt. There are also evidences pointing the existence of whole cloth quilts during the glamour of the trading years in the well-to-to European countries and Asian areas.
The most documented and proven ancestors of the quilts today were extracted from a Mongolian cave. The approximation of experts is that it existed during the first century BC as a linen carpet. At present it is kept safe and preserved within the confines of the Archeology Section in the Saint Petersburg department of the Russian Academy of Sciences.
If you base what you do on inaccurate information, you might be unpleasantly surprised by the consequences. Make sure you get the whole Quilting story from informed sources.
In the United States the making of quilts was quite rare particularly during the period that spanned the late 18th century and that of the onset of the 19th century. The reason was primarily because it was considered as a leisurely practice which is only suitable for the wealthy folks. Most women preferred to stick to the conventional methods of spinning, sewing, and weaving in order to make clothes for the family. Bed covers were limited to the likes of woven varieties made available commercially and economically. Quilting was actually tagged as colonial wherein only a handful can be involved.
Unlike the common garments that can be mended and created out of left over scraps or old materials quilts were highly regarded as decorative items that can truly bring out the meaning of art. Each item brought to life by a skilled maker is considered as a one-of-a-kind needlework. During the early 1800s, quilters focused on the designs that revolved around quilting styles of whole cloth quilts, medallion quilts, and broderie perse.
As always technology entered the scene and made quilting a more recognizable entity as it increased in the number of styles and patterns specifically during the middle portion of the 1800s. The Industrial Revolution paved the way for more promising creations especially when textile manufacturing clawed its way into the picture. The women were not anymore obliged to spin and weave their way into making clothes for their family. When 1840 sprouted, the textile industry allowed for the affordability of commercial fabrics.
Now, there’s a misconception that quilts during this time were forcibly made out of the usual scraps and left over materials from conventional dressmaking methods. Actually it was in this period wherein various forms of cotton prints were made available publicly for the specific purpose of quilt making. There are documents and pictures that indicate that fabrics and materials really were made just for the quilting craft.
About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO
Quilting With No Marks
Today, there are two ways to express your quilting art with your hands or with a modern machine. Whichever way, the finished art produced is more important than the answer to the debate about which way produces more beautiful quilts.
For machine quilters, there are still some technical problems that have to be addressed. One of them is doing your quilt all the way to the finish without any marks on it.
This means not using any chalk, water-soluble markers or any pen that risks the chance of ruining your delicate quilting fabric.
Marking template
To make a no-mark template, choose a continuous-line design that is perfect for your project. Enlarge or reduce your design taking care of leaving at least a half-inch of margin around the edges.
Here’s a tip on how to compute the scale factor for use in photocopying your design. Simply divide the desired length or width of the design by its actual length or width.
With the sum, you multiply it by 100 to get the percentage of enlargement (or reduction) of the design. Take note that the enlargement (or reduction) of your design automatically alters the other dimensions of the design.
The next step is to trace your quilting pattern on a stabilizer paper. Simply pin the paper onto your project and machine-quilt through it.
This method is for all types of continuous-line patterns, repeating or not. It is right for any quilting project: bed or wall quilts, pillows, table runners, etc. This technique is even usable on embellishing ready-to-wear garments.
Pattern play
If your Quilting facts are out-of-date, how will that affect your actions and decisions? Make certain you don’t let important Quilting information slip by you.
Positioning the templates on the quilts may need some decisions. Generally, you can move the templates around until you like the placement.
Once you are satisfied, mark the templates accordingly so you will remember the exact position. Then, pin (or tape) the template one at a time and stitch. It is best to work segment by segment to avoid confusion and catching the paper.
Template paper
Get any lightweight vellum-type tracing paper from any office supply store. (Wax paper from groceries will also work.)
Vellum paper is good because it is sheer enough to see through, tears away easily from the stitches, and not much to clean up after. Use a permanent pen on the paper to avoid the chance of staining your fabric in case the needle hits the pattern and stains itself and brings it to your fabric.
For smaller projects, simply trace the design onto a laid-out design on a single template cut matching the pattern piece. For embellishments, or stitching on ready-to-wear garments, sew the designs from the garment’s wrong side using the template reversed.
Quilting
When quilting, start out from the center and work your way out to the border. If it is a whole cloth design, break it down into segments and work your way segment by segment, placing a template on each segment and stitch.
After you finish each section, remove the templates. It is easy to remove perforated stabilizers. The vellum paper is brittle enough to be scratched away with finger nails without damaging a thread.
After you finished your quilting, take some time off to examine your finished quilt from all sides and angles to check for marks, stray threads or other stuff that don’t belong. You can also congratulate yourself for a job well done.
You can’t predict when knowing something extra about Quilting will come in handy. If you learned anything new about Quilting in this article, you should file the article where you can find it again.
About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his top ranked GVO affiliate site: GVO
Quilting Tools And Accessories
After hundreds of years, quilting has evolved into such a specialized craft that had produced some of the most spectacular works of craftsmanship. Today’s art of quilt-making has come a long way since needles, pins and hoops.
The following are some of the many tools that can help drastically reduce the time in quilt-making. It is important to learn how to be fluent in their use.
Fabric markers
Pencils with soft lead are the most commonly used in marking fabrics. They leave some faint marks that will fade later. Chalk is also a good alternative because it washes out easily. It is, however, not recommended for use in detailed drawing because it is blurry.
Today’s fabric marker pens washes off in time and are better than pencils and chalks.
Long arm quilting machines
First, the bad news is that these machines are quite expensive. Unless you do enough quilting work or are into business, or have the money to burn, it is not recommended.
On the other hand, this sewing machine with a 12-foot wide frame is a quilter’s dream. Essentially, it can do intricate designs and does a month’s typical quilting work in a much shorter time.
Machine quilting needles
Modern technology had also given today’s quilters the machines and needles designed solely for quilting. They allow the use of stippling and other techniques which used to be painstakingly slow in those days.
The most popular are Schmetz needles for both thin and thick quilts. They are compatible with a lot of different threads.
Pins and thimbles
Pins are for holding fabrics together for sewing, basting, pressing, or tacking. Safety pins provide quick solutions in holding quilt fabrics during quilting.
Thimbles had been around since the advent of sewing by hand. Traditionally, they are made of silver but there are china thimbles and those made of leather. The leather kind is popular because they are flexible and more comfortable on the finger.
It’s really a good idea to probe a little deeper into the subject of Quilting. What you learn may give you the confidence you need to venture into new areas.
Quilting hoops and frames
These wooden devices (which every quilter must have) are for holding fabrics together. They are badly needed when working on large projects. They keep the working material taut enough and easier to work on.
The four-sided quilting frames are for very large quilts. Round quilting hoops are for working on smaller areas.
Hand sewing quilting needles
Called betweens’, traditional quilting needles are smaller and stronger than sewing needles. They have smaller eyes to make it easier to pass through layers of fabrics.
They can make very small stitches and help reduce puckering.
Rotary cutters and boards
Rotary cutters are very strong and very sharp instruments to cut precise and accurate blocks of quilting materials. It is a circular blade which is very strong and accurate for cutting and trimming.
It is used with a rotary board which resets any cut or tear done to it by the cutter. The board also prevents material slippage.
Templates
In creating patterns, a quilt-maker needs templates to work with. Made usually of acrylic, templates ensure all your pattern pieces are of the same size every time, whether they have curves, angles, and other intricate line.
Other tools
Threads, with the correct color and strength, are part of your needs in quilting. They should, of course, be closest to the fabric’s color.
Scissors are also essentials in your work. Pin cushions are needed to temporarily store your needles while working. Happy quilting!
As your knowledge about Quilting continues to grow, you will begin to see how Quilting fits into the overall scheme of things. Knowing how something relates to the rest of the world is important too.
About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, proud owner of this top ranked web hosting reseller site: GVO
How to Use Stencils for Quilting
Are you looking for some inside information on Quilting? Here’s an up-to-date report from Quilting experts who should know.
When the average person thinks of stencils, the word probably brings to mind early American style-painted floor cloths, or stenciled walls. Stencils enjoyed a great resurgence in style in the 1980′s as everyone went mad for the country look. However, when a quilter thinks of stencils, a very different use comes to mind. The crafter unfamiliar with the use of stencils in quilting may be quite perplexed as to how they are used. After all, when you look at a quilt, there’s no evidence that anything to do with stenciling in the traditional sense has occurred!
However, stencils are actually very useful in the art of quilting and advances in technology are quickly making them a must-have tool. Quilting stencils are very similar to stencils for paint, and often look about the same. They are most often made from a sturdy plastic, with holes punched in it for the design. However, while painting stencils are used to create decorative elements, quilting stencils are used to lay down a pattern to follow when stitching. The use of quilting stencils allows quilters to reproduce elaborate patterns on their quilt tops. With quilting stencils, you have an easy way to transfer and then follow a stitching design. You don’t need to worry if you feel you can’t draw. With quilting stencils, the drawing has all been done and all you have to do is follow someone else’s design.
Hopefully the information presented so far has been applicable. You might also want to consider the following:
Many companies offer quilting stencils and the supplies you’ll need to go with them. You’ll find designs ranging from traditional florals and fans to very contemporary styles. Take a look around some of the quilting sites on the internet or visit your local quilting store to get an idea of how many stencils await you.
Quilting stencils are easy to use. To transfer the design you can use chalk or stitching or water-soluble pens. (It is very important that you test the water soluble pen with your fabric before using it with a stencil-you don’t want it to ruin your beautiful pieced quilt top!) All you have to do is lay the quilting stencil atop your fabric and trace the pattern. Voila! You now have a stitching pattern to follow without a lot of muss and fuss. After all, most quilters prefer to spend their time designing, piecing a quilt top, or doing the actual quilting, not messing around with pattern transfers. A simple rule of thumb is to choose a design about a half an inch to an inch smaller than your block, so that the resulting pattern doesn’t look crowded. You can also take one of the smaller stencils and repeat the design by laying it down in a pattern on your fabric.
Quilting stencils are one of the most useful advances in notions for the home crafter. The average quilter of yesteryear would be amazed to view all the notions and supplies that are now available for the home crafter. Why not take advantage of these advances yourself? Quilting stencils are a great time-saver.
About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, proud owner of this top ranked web hosting reseller site: GVO
Quilting Tools: A List Of The Essentials
Are you looking for some inside information on Quilting? Here’s an up-to-date report from Quilting experts who should know.
Anyone who starts to take interest in quilting is commonly overwhelmed by the thought of collecting all the patterns he sets his eyes on. While this is okay, the first task of a beginning quilter is actually to gather all the necessary quilting tools.
Here is a list of the most basic quilting tools. Although some tools need to be purchased, others are just sitting in the house, or more appropriately in the sewing box.
Pins
These are necessary to keep fabrics together while quilting. There are many different kinds of pins. Some have glass heads, while others are ball-headed. The latter are more preferred by most quilters because they are more visible and are easier to hold. Pins that are sharp, fine, and long are recommended for quilting purposes.
Pin Cushion
It is used to hold and keep pins when not in use. Other quilters also use magnetic pin strips to pick up stray pins and collect pins that have been left lying on top of the quilt.
If you find yourself confused by what you’ve read to this point, don’t despair. Everything should be crystal clear by the time you finish.
Needles
There are two types of quilting needles: hand quilting and machine quilting needles. Both kinds are stronger and sharper than the ordinary sewing needles since they need to pass through multiple layers of fabrics without the tendency of bending and breaking. Hand quilting needles, also called betweens, come in four sizes: 9, 10, 11, 12, with 9 as the biggest and 12 as the smallest. They also have smaller eyes and are thicker than other needles. Machine needles, meanwhile, need to be replaced every so often to keep making fine stitches and to prevent the needles from breaking.
Thimble
Worn when hand quilting, thimble cushions the finger that pushes the needle and works to prevent finger sore and needle pricks. It can be a little uncomfortable when first worn, but proves to be helpful in protecting the finger and controlling the needle. Thimbles are usually made of metal, although leather thimbles have become more popular nowadays. In fact, leather thimbles are recommended for novice quilters because they have a better grip on the needle.
Fabric Marker
An essential quilting tool, fabric marker is used to line out the fabric. Depending on the fabric, you can use any of these three markers: pencil, chalk, or fabric marker pen. Soft lead pencil is the most commonly used fabric marker as it is easily washed off and fades over time. Chalk is also a good alternative and is fairly easy to remove. However, it does not work well when making detailed markings and drawings. For this purpose, a fabric marker pen is best used. Like the other two, it can be easily washed out and fades after some time. Before using a fabric marker, it is best to first test it on a sample fabric. Mark a small piece from the fabric you are using and wash. See how the fabric reacts to the marker.
Rotary Cutter
A circular blade, rotary cutter is used to cut and trim fabrics with precision and accuracy, which makes it very useful in cutting identical strips. Because of its strength and sharpness, it can work with fabrics of different texture and thickness and can glide through fabrics in multiple layers. A rotary cutter is often used with other quilting tools such as rotary board or mat and transparent plastic ruler. For other cutting purposes, scissors are used in place of rotary cutter.
About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, proud owner of this top ranked web hosting reseller site: GVO
All About Quilting
The following article includes pertinent information that may cause you to reconsider what you thought you understood. The most important thing is to study with an open mind and be willing to revise your understanding if necessary.
Quilting is a craft that has been around for centuries. For hundreds of years, the Chinese have used quilted cloth for their padded winter clothing. The Crusaders found that the quilted shirts worn by Arabs offered a great deal of protection under their chainmail. They even brought the idea back home in the 13th century. The process was adapted by European women for the use in creating bedcovers.
Quilting came to America with the Pilgrims, in the 16th century. Lack of resources made it necessary for the settlers to recycle their clothing and other fabrics, they made quilt tops, cutting the fabric into smaller pieces and patching or clouting it over and over until it wore out completely. These first quilts were more practical than pretty, but as the settlers prospered the designs became more colorful and elaborate. Appliqué also became a popular way of decorating the quilts and the patchwork quilt was officially born.
Around this time quilts became associated with the celebration of important events. Specific designs were created for specific reasons. The Double Wedding Ring design was used to mark a marriage or anniversary. This design was made from interlocking rings, each constructed from tiny patches. It was a very time consuming project, and usually was worked by multiple quilter’s at the same time.
These days’ patchwork quilts are traditionally made from scraps left over from past sewing projects. Not all scraps are suitable for this purpose. Loosely woven fabrics, such as muslin, are weak and prone to distortion, while very tightly woven fabrics, such as ticking, are not flexible enough and hard to stitch. Cotton is the best fabric to use, especially for inexperienced quilters. Once a quilter is more experienced they may add other fabrics like silk, lightweight wool and so on.
If you find yourself confused by what you’ve read to this point, don’t despair. Everything should be crystal clear by the time you finish.
The color of a quilt is up to the creator. Most quilters plan their project carefully, or follow an established pattern. Making test patches is a great way to experiment. Colors are usually sorted into tones, light, medium and dark. Using tone helps to create depth and design. Textured fabric also creates different effects.
Pre-wash all fabrics in mild detergent and warm water before starting a quilt. Any fabrics that may run should be washed separately. When the fabrics are dry they should be ironed, either with a steam iron, or a dry iron and a clean damp cloth.
Quilts are made of three layers. The top piece is the layer that is decorated and most elaborate. The middle piece is a layer of batting, or wadding, that provides warmth. The third piece is the backing. These three layers are held together with lines of stitching. These lines may be worked in a grid, in straight rows or elaborate patterns. Originally they were sewn by hand with a needle. Today some quilters still produce quilts this way, while others prefer machine quilting.
In the pioneer days the only equipment needed to produce a quilt included a needle, thread and material, and hopefully a pair if shears and a thimble. A wooden frame would be constructed to allow the quilter to use both hands, or to enable more than one sewer to work at a time. Quilting bees were popular social gatherings. Today many quilters prefer to use a large wooden hoop to make their projects more portable.
About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, proud owner of this top ranked web hosting reseller site: GVO
Quilting With Machines
The following article lists some simple, informative tips that will help you have a better experience with Quilting.
In the good old days, quilting sometimes takes months and month. Sometimes, several quilters work together to finish a quilt faster. Those were the days when quilters (mostly women) have all the time in the world.
Today, it is already common for most quilters (including the traditionalists) to sometimes use the machines in quilting. Admittedly, the primary consideration of today’s quilting machines is for faster and easier work.
Moreover, many quilters also agree that there are certain quilting chores that are simply too much for the hands. Related to this, it was found out that the machines could also trigger quilters’ creativity.
From simple walking foot to free range embroidery, a quilter now can sometimes come up with works of art using the machine’s capacity for intricate quilting.
Machines
An ordinary sewing machine can double up as a quilting machine. However, some machines need adaptations. For the quilter, a little practice is all there is to do to master machine quilting.
A big consideration is the width of the opening between the needle and the motor where larger openings are needed to maneuver large quilts. (In small machines, large quilts need to be quilted in sections and then joined.)
There are two categories in machine quilting: machine guided (where the feed dogs are up) and used for straight and slightly curved lines. Free motion quilting (where the feed dogs are covered or dropped) is for all the other patterns like feathered stars and stippling.
But these are not written in stone.
Some quilters use free motion quilting for all their patterns, even those made with straight lines. Other quilters prefer to use even stitches of machine-guided quilts in making feathered quilts (or some such patterns).
Most of this information comes straight from the Quilting pros. Careful reading to the end virtually guarantees that you’ll know what they know.
Needles
The most important part of a sewing machine is the needle, even if it is the least expensive of all the parts. Ideally, quilters should begin new projects with new needles.
Needles need to be replaced if they start to show signs of dulling, make popping noise (threads caught and broken by dull needle points) and produce poorly-formed stitches.
Large projects need several needles.
Sharp needles are needed to penetrate thick layers of fabric and batting. There are specialty needles too for rayon embroidery or metallic threads. There are very good popular brands of these needles available.
Threads
First, threads designed for hand quilting are never used in machine quilting. Threads for hand quilting have wax coatings (for strength and ease) which can possibly damage the tension discs of sewing machines.
There is also need to match your thread and the project correctly. Rayon and metallic threads are best for wall hangings while baby quilts (which are washed every so often) would need pure cotton thread.
Another tip is a thread that might be too heavy for the machine’s needle might be used in the bobbin and sewing the quilt from the wrong side.
Finally, if you are looking for best results while using machines to do your quilting, use high-quality cotton threads with long staples (fiber).
There is no conflict in using either your hands or a machine to do your quilting. If you have the eye and the heart for your work, beauty will always come out.
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